Homework Suggestions
We had the reactivity to sounds workshop this weekend so here are some resources and tips for continuing your work.
HERE IS THE LINK TO THE YOUTUBE SOUND PLAYLIST WHERE I HAVE COLLECTED A LOT OF SOUND PLAYLISTS:
HERE IS THE VIDEO FROM LAST YEAR’S SOUND SENSITIVITY WORKSHOP, WE WILL DO ANOTHER ONE THIS YEAR, BUT IF YOU HAVE A SOUND SENSITIVE DOG IT MIGHT BE GOOD TO CHECK IT OUT NOW.
HERE ARE THE EXERCISES FROM THE WORKSHOP:
If your dog is not very good about interacting with novel objects and doesn’t want to approach the bottle, playing the hot object game is a good way to get them interested in novel objects
Here is the button I am using. There are many styles of buttons you can choose, just try to pick one that allows: re-recording, has an audio input jack so you can record off your computer for better sound quality.
If your dog doesn’t yet know how to touch a target with their paw, here is a video on teaching a paw target
If you have not yet taught put your toys away, here is a video working on that:
For our Tricks class:
We added back up this week. Remember the first step is just getting the pattern of eating the treat between your feet, then looking up and getting a treat back at their feet. Do NOT worry about how far they are moving back, all you need for the first step is that they stay standing up and understand the most efficient way to get lots of treats is to stay there standing and to lean forward and backward rather than spinning around, moving around, sitting, laying down, etc. We need them loving that lined up in front of us position, then getting steps becomes much easier.
Keep working on your sit pretty, hold, shy and orbit/pedestal
For our Foundations Class:
STAY: REMEMBER YOUR GOAL IS JUST ONE STEP AWAY IN EACH DIRECTION. WORK ON DURATION NOT DISTANCE, USE A RELEASE WORD TO END THE STAY IF YOU SAY “STAY”.
RECALLS: REMEMBER TO PET YOUR PUPPY EACH TIME THEY COME TO YOU! DIRECT THEM IN WITH YOUR POINTED FINGER, YOUR GOAL THAT THEY END UP CLOSE ENOUGH TO TOUCH WITHOUT MOVING YOUR FEET. PLAY YOUR RECALL GAMES!
LEAVE IT: REMEMBER TO BE QUICK! YOU WANT TO REWARD BEFORE THEY GO FOR THE TREAT IN YOUR OPEN HAND. YOUR GOAL IS TO SEE IF YOU CAN GET IT TO THE GROUND BEFORE THE NEXT CLASS!
What's happening this week?
TRICKS CLASS: TUESDAY MORNING & THURSDAY EVENING (PACIFIC TIME)
We will keep working on the previous tricks: hold, sit up, orbit/pedestal, shy and then introduce Back up.
FOUNDATION CLASSES: THURSDAY AFTERNOON & SATURDAY MORNING FOR BABY PUPPIES (PACIFIC TIME)
We will be working on Foundations for Recall, Stay & Leave it.
REACTIVE DOG CLASS: SATURDAY MORNING (OVERFLOW CLASS HAS BEEN ADDED- IF WE DON’T HIT THE 4 EXTRA FOLKS NEEDED FOR THAT CLASS YOU CAN JOIN THE 9AM CLASS)
This week’s topic is reactivity to sounds and sound sensitivity in regards to reactivity.
In the US here in the Pacific Northwest we have changed our clocks for daylight savings so please use the time calculator to be sure you don’t miss the classes! If you RSVP’d via the reservation system I believe it adjusts it for you, but please double check 🙂
Homework Suggestions
FOR THOSE TAKING THE TRICKS CLASS:
Keep building that duration for your sit pretty: remember to start working on raising your rewards vertically over their heads, and brining it back down quickly, you want a fast enough pace they see no reason to drop down, then as they get stronger start a slightly longer pause between rewards. For those of you who getting a bit of duration see if you can gradually back yourself a little further away from them, still give the treats from up high.
Keep building your duration for the hold: If your dog struggles to get any duration on holds you can back up and do some shaping games to get your dog carrying the object: (see the videos below on doing that). Blending hold work and that putting an object somewhere can really help create more duration as they learn to target a spot to carry to. Remember that if you stand up or sit high, presenting the object where your dog’s head is tilting up helps create a position that makes holding that position easier.
If you want to watch this whole series of shaping Leo to fetch use the Clicks & Tricks Video Playlist link and scroll to the bottom of the list.
Keep working on your orbit and pedestal work to get those hind legs working! Once you get your full pedestal spins we can work on fading the pedestal and getting our back spins on the ground.
How is your Shy coming? Do not be discouraged if this one takes some time. It is one that is a bit more challenging to work on and takes a lot of capturing (rewarding when it happens) to get the dogs to start offering it. It is a more advanced trick so if it feels like too much, just focus on the other tricks and come back to this one later! In class I showed you a variety of ways to get some pawing action happening. This video shows you a way to use targeting combined to get the pawing happening. This trick would fall into my “for fun and advancing skills” category and not really a multi use purposeful trick. The others we have worked on are more essential tricks that I like for all the other things it gives you, this one is really more about improving your skills so don’t push it if it feels beyond what you are both ready for.
FOUNDATIONS:
Polish up the finesse of all your dog’s basic positions
Sit
Down
Stand
Middle
Heel
Front
My goal is that not only does my dog know how to do each of these positions, but they like to! That doing so is a way for us to connect and communicate, it’s not about compliance. I want to have these positions to be able to negotiate life with my dogs to make things easier for them.
Sit: easier for me to do things like put their leash on, a way to give them something to focus on when they want to jump up, a way to assess if they are thinking when I’m about to open a door. Down: helping a dog settle as we wait for things together. Stand: grooming, vet care, wiping off feet, etc. Middle: way to tuck in for connection and be out of the way. Heel: be beside me as we move through a crowded world. Front: a place to come to so I can connect and engage with, ease on putting on leash or having them stay with me as something goes by.
So you see, for me it is not about commands you must do for me, but rather ways we can work through things together with language and positions they understand so I don’t have to physically manhandle them through these moments.
REACTIVE DOGS:
See the blog post from Saturday 🙂
Working a reactive dog training program
So the question was asked that was a great one on how best to work on the training in regards to the live zoom classes, the pacing and timing of the training with the live classes.
So first of all these starting reactive dog classes are broken into categories so that as we start we have spent more time going into details about how things differ whether you are working on dog reactivity, stranger danger, sound sensitivity or motion reactivity. So each class has had a focus on those to give you more clarity on those types of reactions. The zoom classes supplement the training modules as we cannot do all of those things in a live class setting. To really fix reactivity we need to do a thorough job understanding those nuances. And we will be working together all year long to work the program!
The link above is an example of how I would work a reactivity training plan where we blend our reactivity training along with the supportive exercises and decompression times. The plan is an ideal version but can be adapted to what your schedule allows if you cannot go out and work around trigger 3 times in a week, which you would not want to do if your dog gets trigger stacked.
So the answer is these are our starting classes to give you the information and understanding for how to handle situations, how to set up training and exercises to work on to prepare for your reactivity training. Your first step is that CC/engage-disenage game, and that usually takes several weeks to months to work just that first step. So do that as we work on these classes getting you all started. Then we will keep advancing our training together as you work through the modules on your own, or as you come with me through the live classes where we keep advancing all of your training skills, while we work on those reactivity exercises.
After these first 4 classes this is not the end of the reactivity training classes, it’s just we will also focus on other stuff, like cooperative care, etc while we keep working on reactivity 🙂.
What's happening this week?
Live Zoom Classes this week:
TRICKS: TUESDAY MORNING 7:30AM & THURSDAY EVENING 6PM (PACIFIC TIME). WE WILL BE REVIEWING THE: HOLD, SIT PRETTY, ORBIT/PEDESTAL AND LOOKING AT INTRODUCING THE SHY (PUT YOUR PAW OVER YOUR NOSE) TRICK.
FOUNDATIONS: THURSDAY AFTERNOON 4PM (PACIFIC TIME) FOR ANY AGE DOGS AND SATURDAY 8AM FOR BABY PUPPIES 6 MONTHS AND UNDER. WE WILL BE FOCUSING ON EACH OF THE FOUNDATION POSITIONS: SIT, DOWN, STAND, HEEL (THE PLACE NOT THE ACTION), MIDDLE & FRONT.
REACTIVITY: SATURDAY MORNING 9AM (PACIFIC TIME) THIS WEEK WE ARE FOCUSING ON STRANGER DANGER- REACTIVITY/FEAR TO PEOPLE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE THE HOME.
Engagement/Recall Homework Exercise:
This exercise is one of the most important exercises for any dog for any reason but especially helpful for our reactive dogs. As some of you may notice often our dogs become conditioned that us calling them means a trigger is near, or maybe they are just a young excited dog and they learn that calling means a distraction is nearby so when you call they start looking for what to be distracted by or worried about. It helps a lot if we play games to keep making looking at us when he engage them is mostly a bid for engagement and not a management tool. I play this game more than any other game! If your dog doesn’t love toys then we play the game with food. The idea is simple: say your dog’s name and reinforce the moment they turn their eyes to you. You throw the rewards to where they are, they are not required to come to you, only make eye contact. If your dog is anxious or over aroused don’t be surprised if it takes them some time to realize looking at you will pay off. If they are not able to do it, get closer and practice when they are close enough you can quickly show them the reward after you say their name.
Trick Challenges and Homework
If you are participating in the trick classes, be sure to check out the end of this post for details on upcoming fun challenges for Easter! I’m giving you plenty of time to train 😉.
This week’s homework
REACTIVE DOGS: (LAST SATURDAY’S LIVE ZOOM CLASS)
THOSE WORKING THE REACTIVE DOG PROGRAM. IF YOU DID NOT ATTEND THIS WEEKEND’S LIVE ZOOM CLASS YOU MIGHT WANT TO WATCH IT ON THE RECORDED ZOOMS.
Your homework is to:
work on your “look at it” with some random objects at home to get them looking in the direction you look on cue.
scout out locations for doing classical conditioning. Be sure to watch the video on classical conditioning, pay special attention to how relaxed the dog I am working is. If your dog is already locked onto the triggers you are too close for proper conditioning to change emotions to take place.
Can’t find a place far enough away to work on CC with triggers? Can you start inside your car? You can drive to a big parking lot and park on the far end and work with your dog still in the car.
FOUNDATIONS: (LAST THURSDAY AFTERNOON’S LIVE ZOOM CLASS)
Your homework is to focus on your reward timing and placement.
Pedestal training to work on the hand positions for creating a turn in your dog’s body for both rear end awareness and for you to understand how to use timing and placement to create more movement.
Getting a straight sit beside or in front of you, again this is to show you how where and how your reward influences your dog’s body positions.
Find your mark! Working on getting your timing: behavior- mark- reward. Making sure you have the timing so that your dogs learn what the marks mean and so you can better pair your rewards with the proper behavior.
BABY PUPPIES: (LAST SATURDAY MORNINGS LIVE ZOOM CLASS)
Sit
Down (both from a sit and a stand)
Stand (from a sit or a down)
Leave it
Puppy recall game
Play
Practice each of these exercises all combined for 3-5 minutes a day. (don’t over do it! Do 3-5 reps move on, use play between to keep your puppy engaged. If they get too excited stop and scatter some treats and end the game).
TRICKS: (LAST TUESDAY AND THURSDAY LIVE ZOOM CLASSES)
Keep working on your hold! See if you can get any grabbing, once you have grabbing can you get a little time holding. Have the hold- can you get some movement or changes of position while they hold?
Sit pretty- build their strength in the position by practicing in short bits, work on fading your help but not until you feel they are not bracing so much against your helping hand.
Orbit. Work that pedestal! If you have it, and they will rotate with very little help, work on fading your pedestal and getting them to line up tucked behind you.
Easter Trick Challenges!
BEGINNER:
Wearing a pair of bunny ears in a sit stay
INTERMEDIATE:
Wearing a pair of bunny ears and holding a basket or carrot
Putting easter eggs in a basket
ADVANCED:
Wearing bunny ears, holding a basket and sitting pretty
Putting eggs in a basket, picking up and holding basket
Carrying full basket
You are under no pressure to do these challenges, but I often think it is fun to have a goal and something to train for and to see different ways you can use the same types of behaviors to create other things. While in trick form these things just seem silly, it is because of these sorts of tricks that when I needed her help Emily had all of the tools to step in and be my service dog when I was struggling with having normal use of my hands (which thankfully was able to be diagnosed and treated so I no longer needed that help). It’s also so nice on trail for the dogs to be able to go get trekking poles we’ve dropped, water bottles, etc. They were able to fetch me the remote when I was on the couch with a broken foot. So I love teaching these things to my dogs! (plus they also help for dogs that like to play keep away and have trouble coming back with fetch.)
If you need any more details on the exercises you can use the Modules as your text book to look for more help. The Reactive dog, Foundations and Trick Modules all have more information to help you dive into the exercises in more depth!
Zoom Group Class Update
Hi Everyone!
A few updates to the RSVP and zoom calendar for you as some people have been messaging me being worried about missing classes or struggling to RSVP.
YOU CAN ATTEND ANY CLASS YOU WANT TO! If you can’t sort out the RSVP system or it’s too close to class time for it to let you, or you lost your email confirmation for the class, or if for ANY reason you can’t sort it out you can ALWAYS join using the Zoom invitation link found on the Events Calendar.
The RSVP system will: give you reminder emails. Let you add events to sync with your own calendars. And most importantly they let me know I need to offer more options for that class to keep classes from getting too big. So if you see an “overflow class” offered, that means I think that class is getting big and if you can make the other offered time you will get more opportunity for one on one time by joining the overflow class. If you were signed up for the original class and see the overflow option and that time works better for you, go ahead and switch. But the system is not designed to keep anyone out of a class, I am sorry if that wasn't clear. It’s to make it easier for you to keep track of classes and get reminders 🙂
I will add more slots to the RSVP system to make it easier for you to save it on your calendar, but if you see there are already 25 people for a 30 minute class or 40 for an hour class you might check the overflow classes to get into a class with less folks saving a spot so you know you have more opportunity for feedback.
The only class I ask you not to attend is the Baby puppy unless you have a young puppy, if your puppy is near the age cut off, like say they are just 6 months by all means join in, but please don’t join in with an older dog or just to watch as those with little puppies just starting out generally need a lot more coaching so I keep those classes smaller. And yes, I will be adding options for older puppies and adolescent dogs too! I just don’t want to overwhelm people by having them trying to take too many classes at once. But those are coming.
But Please I don’t want anyone to feel like they can get into the classes they want to, I am all about giving you want you want and need to succeed!!!
Let's get started!
For this week we have several classes coming up depending on what your focus is!
For those of you just getting started with young puppies we will have a group class Saturday morning (pacific time) where we will work on the basics together starting with: sit, down, stand, leave it and puppy recall. You can visit the foundations for more details if you want to get started and practice before class. If you are struggling we can work through things together on Saturday. Thursday afternoon there is also a foundations class focusing on technique.
If you are joining in on our Tricks classes, offered Tuesday morning and Thursday evening (pacific time) we will be working on: Hold, Sit pretty and orbit/pedestal. Visit the Clicks and Tricks for some more details if you want to get started and also I will be showing you broken down examples of the training and helping walk you through the steps in class.
For our reactive dogs we will be talking about understanding reactivity, classical conditioning, understanding the look at it game and the engage/disengage game and going into things in more depth as a group. It helps to listen to the lectures in the Reactivity Modules and the videos on understanding thresholds and classical conditioning. Don’t worry, you won’t have to have watched them to follow along, but they may answer many of your questions.
Remember, you don’t have to do it all! And I suggest you don’t, but this way you know what’s happening this week in the zoom group classes. If you cannot attend in person the recordings will be up within a day in the zoom recordings playlist in the zoom room.
Goal Setting
Ok now that you are all here for this year’s academy let’s talk about goal setting.
Why do it?
Keep you more focused on what classes to take or modules to prioritize
Be able to look back on later to see your progress that’s easy to lose sight of
Breaking big behaviors into smaller slices
What not to make it about:
a task list to make you feel pressured
too big it’s overwhelming
a rigid schedule with no flexibility
Check out the link above for a list of questions to help you organize your priorities.
First identify the top 3 things that are issues for you, then think about how frequently each thing on that list happens. Often we top the list with something that only happens once a month and push something down the list that we deal with every day. A good example of this is: we are super troubled when our dog reacts to visitors, but we only have 1 visitor a month if that, and loose leash walking is way down our priority list, but we actually struggle with it every single day. Not that we don’t want to address the reacting to visitors, but things we struggle with every day affect our relationship with our dogs and we want to make sure we work on that daily stuff and not push it aside as it actually affects everything else.
Don’t forget the fun!!!!
If your list is all just about what you don’t like about what your dog does, well that can make training not very fun or motivating for either of you. We need fun things to work on so training itself is more fun for us and the dogs! If your list of what fun things you want to work on is small, back up and fill that list! It matters just as much if not more than “fixing” your dog’s problems.
Look at your list of your dog’s favorite toys/treats:
How many of those toys involve directly interacting with you? If that number is small you need to hit the engagement modules before you go anywhere else. If your dog doesn’t like to play with you, we can train with food for sure, however, if you really want to unlock engagement investing time in play is worth every penny! If your dog is picky about food, and your treat list small (I’m not talking about having to limit due to allergies or health reasons) we need to work on food drive! “My dog isn’t interested in treats” especially when we talk about working on reactivity or anxiety is often a direct sign our dog is already over threshold and we need to understand how to set the stage to bring out that interest in food. So my goal with ANY dog I train is to fill that list of 5 favorite toys (that we can play with together) and 5 favorite treats so I know what my dog likes as these are my tools of motivation!
Avoiding burn out and getting overwhelmed
Keep it to threes.
Don’t try to work more then three things at a time. But know that not all things are a simple thing. So when I talk goal setting with students most will list “reactivity” as a goal. But in actuality reactivity is usually comprised of MANY things! It can be anxiety, fear, frustration, sound sensitivity, separation anxiety, over arousal, prey drive, all mashed into one label. So really that is like adding a dozen things to your list.
So one person might list “Reactivity with dogs” as one subject on their to do list.
My list is going to look a little more like this:
Reactivity when seeing a dog out on a walk on leash
Reactivity when seeing a dog on a walk off leash
Reactivity seeing a dog while in the car when we are driving
Reactivity seeing a dog through the window at home
Reactivity walking past a dog quiet dog in a yard
Reactivity walking past a barking dog in a yard
Reactivity passing a dog while walking on a neighborhood street
Reactivity seeing a dog in a field at the park
Reactivity seeing a dog on a hiking trail
Reactivity passing a dog on a hiking trail
By breaking down all of these different ways the reactivity exists I can tackle each one as it’s own goal, so I might accomplish 6 goals and still not have “fixed” the reactivity, but I have made it a lot better and I am aware of the progress I am actually making when my dog does react to something on the list I have not yet sorted out.
So if I have “dog reactivity” on my list of threes I might have actually added a dozen things and then I wonder why I’m overwhelmed when I add on a few dozen more when I add “separation anxiety” and “sound sensitivity” Those three things are actually more like a hundred behaviors at play.
So we slice these things down into more manageable bite sized pieces.
So your list of three things to work on during Goal setting might be:
dog reactivity
separation anxiety
sound sensitivity
Mine is going to look more like this:
Walking passed a quiet dog in a yard
Being able to leave house for 3 minutes
Desensitize the sound of vacuum cleaner
My list is far more likely to be attainable and by meeting the goals I will gain confidence to set more of them.
Welcome to the 2022 Academy
GETTING STARTED
Sign up for the Newsletter. I will be sending out regular updates with blog posts, class info and stuff to help you stay motivated!
Facebook?
You get the most out of the academy if you choose to opt in to using the private FB groups to post homework and observe others work and see the commentary. It’s not required and all content is housed here on the site but it does make for a more complete experience. That being said, if you keep active here and attend the Live Zoom Classes you can still have a very fun full experience.
First join the main Academy Group. When it asks you for a password: A22
Then if you want to post videos for me to review join the FB Homework Group, password is the same. Once you are approved to the Discussion group it will automatically approve you for the Homework group if you join.
Head to the FB Group and start introducing yourselves so we can get to know each other before we start.
Navigating the Academy
Once class is live the home page when you log in will have a link to this classroom, as well as to a master directory. The directory page has links to all of the class modules, video playlists, and all you need to make your way around the site.
Class Modules
The academy includes access to all of the classes I currently offer. You will find in the directory links to each of the class modules, the link above will take you to the FB discussion group. You can work the classes and modules in anyway you wish to. You can work the subjects most important to you or you can follow the flow of the classroom curriculum as I lead people through the year long program. I suggest if you have a reactive dog you prioritize those modules and add other things in as you feel you are ready to.
Zoom Room
Throughout the year we have regular Zoom sessions, in general twice a month. Shorter weekday classes and longer weekend classes. I record them so folks who cannot watch live can view later. You can find Invitations and link to the Recordings playlist in the zoom room.
POSTING HOMEWORK
Homework videos are limited to 3 minutes per submission. You can post follow up videos to the same exercises as we work together to adjust what you and your dog need. Capturing decent footage and editing is crucial to being able to best help you. Above is a video with some basic editing tips using iMovie which is on all iPhones and is pretty easy to figure out. You can also use editing apps like InShot and others, just be sure that you select a view that allows me to see both you and your dog.
I’ll be honest, a lot of people find this aspect of the class difficult because it is not easy to show yourself making mistakes and it takes time to edit and upload videos. I totally get it. You are not required to submit homework videos, if you don’t I strongly suggest you attend regular live zoom classes to help you stay active and motivated throughout the year. I can’t give you personal feedback if you don’t do one or the other. I can answer general behavior questions but seeing you and your dog together is how I can best help you and is what sets this program apart from many others.
Shooting footage
This is tricky! Especially for the reactive dog class since triggers can pop up unexpectedly. But first let’s work on easier set ups and how to film for best use in class.
find a location with something you can put your phone on, a park bench, a fence, a wall, a curb, anything flat above ground level. Also some people have great success using a fanny pack and sticking the phone with the camera end out. A gopro is awesome.
Tap your screen so your camera flips and you can see yourself so you know if you are in view or not.
Try to have the camera set so I can see you and your dog! Videos that just show me your dog’s adorable face are cute and lovely, but they don’t show me what it is that you are doing and what your dog is or isn’t responding to.
Keep in mind when you set up things like, is the lens above the grass. Am I standing in front of it the whole time so all I see is you legs and not the dog 😂
helpers are amazing! Pay your friends and family to follow you and film for a few minutes, just show them how to be sure to get all of you and the dog in the shot.
Equipment
I film most all of my videos with an iPhone. Smartphones make it easy to film, edit and upload.
I suggest you invest in a small tripod if you are going to make regular homework videos. They make little portable ones that fit in a pocket that you can set up anywhere, and they are not very expensive.
Many of the tripods also come with remotes so you can start and stop the camera so you have less editing to do later.
If you have a smartphone you should be able to do all your editing and uploading on it.
Editing videos
watch the video for tips.
Please cut down the unnecessary bits and the start and end of you turning the camera on and off. Most all cell phones have the option of you editing your clips from your library to cut that part out even without iMovie.
If you have long periods of dead space where nothing happens, speed the video up, or simply cut that piece out.
If you have to film from farther away and we can barely see you, you can zoom the footage in.
Posting videos
again, 3 minutes or less. Most of the exercises I can see what I need to see in as little as 30-45 seconds..
Post the video on the private FB group and tag me: Dawn Mellon.
I strongly recommend you consider using Youtube or Vimeo for uploading your videos, then you can just post the share link in the comments. This way you have these videos in your own library forever to come back and reference later. Both platforms offer the option of making your videos unlisted so no one can see them without the link.
You can post directly to FB comments using their uploading features, but I find they fail to load sometimes and that can be very frustrating. This is especially the case with longer videos. Under a minute is usually great on FB.
I will not accept videos on any platforms that require me to download to view 🙂
If you can’t figure it out ask for help!!! Either message me or leave a comment and someone can probably help you sort it out.